If you are looking for How To Set Stones In Jewelry, then here is a complete step by step guide. Everything that you need to know.
Do you have a passion for creating jewelry? Are you attracted to the glimmer and charm of precious stones? If yes, let’s start learning how to set stones in jewelry, a fascinating topic in this industry. Anyone who wants to make beautiful, distinctive objects that shine must possess this talent.
We’ll take you step-by-step through the procedure while describing the tools you’ll need, the varieties of stone settings you can select, and the strategies to ensure your stones are securely and attractively set in this guide. To assist you in avoiding frequent problems and producing excellent results, we’ll also provide tips and tactics that we’ve learned from seasoned jewelers.
Don’t worry if the stone setting initially seems scary. Anyone can master this trade with enough practice. So get your tools ready, roll up your sleeves, and let’s start on how to set stones in jewelry!
Stone Setting Types
Claw settings are made of minimal metal, enabling light to travel through the stone and providing simple access to the stone for cleaning. Prongs, part of the claw setting, are utilized to retain the stone when bent over.
Gypsy settings, which set a stone using the surrounding metal, give the stone you’re setting a flush appearance within the jewelry item.
A solid metal wall must surround the stone in a bezel setting, also known as a rub-over setting. It forms a wall and presses up against the stone by resting on a foundation made of wire or metal.
This style of stone setting dramatically emphasizes the look of a little stone. A stone is fitted into a collet with a substantial wall to accomplish this.
The word pave comes from the French word paved. Small stones are used in pave settings to cover the surface of jewelry. Tiny metal beads are raised above the stone and pushed up from the surface.
Typically, lines of this kind of stone setting are employed. Channel-set stones are supported on both sides and from below. The two sides are pressed downward to tighten the stone in position on your jewelry stone setting.
This stone setting uses the metal around it to hold the stone in place and requires strain through the metal to support the stone. It can be set at a tension that enables light to travel through and reveal its brilliance.
Small stones are arranged in lines to form grain settings. Tiny beads or metal grains are pushed over the stone and drawn up from the surface.
How to Set Stones in Jewelry?
Down below are the complete steps on how to set stones in jewelry. However, we will be discussing the bezel stone setting for a pendant. So, let’s begin!
- Take the flat stake, the texturing hammer, and the 12mm x 50mm silver. Holding one side of the silver sheet, place it onto the flat stake. Use the texturing hammer to repeatedly smash the silver sheet in one direction, rotating it, then do the same on the other end.
- Use the flat edge of a half-round file to straighten the edges. Buff the edges to make them more seamless using Emery sticks.
- Using dividers, measure 42mm on a steel ruler, then score a line width-ways in the textured sheet. This line was pierced. The worked-on textured sheet will be hardened and ready for annealing, quenching, and pickling. Push the untextured edge against the broadest curve of your choice to form a curve. This would be ideal if you had a bangle mandrel.
- Place a piece of nearly the same length, 15mm x 40mm, against the curved edge. Rub the edges of coarse emery paper until flat, then place it flush against the bigger piece of paper.
- Create flux using a borax cone and dish. Then, using a flux brush, apply flux to the sheet and the recently buffed edge. After that, adhere the curved sheet to one side of the silver sheet. Cut two tiny hard solder pallions with shears, then place them on the fluxed join.
- Apply heat gradually and gently with a hand torch until it is hot enough for the solder to flow. Then slake and pickle. Repeat the process with hard solder on the other end.
- Use as much hard solder as possible when employing more than three solder joins with your jewelry stone setting tools!
- Wrap the strip around the stone, allowing it to overlap, and create the bezel. Remove the stone once it is in the right form. Ensure the two ends are flush with no gaps and saw holes, or use end cutters to cut where the strip overlaps.
- Flux the bezel’s joint using tweezers to apply a small amount of hard solder. When the solder pours, gently and evenly apply heat to the bezel; after that, extinguish the flame. Quench and pickle.
- To ensure a true circle, set the bezel upon a triblet or tap it with a mallet using round-nose pliers. At this point, ensure the stone fits; if the bezel is too big, file the solder line. File the ends if the stone still won’t fit. If you want to lower the height, rub the base against rough emery paper. The bezel strip will be higher than the stone. The height of the bezel must be almost level with the start of the stone’s curve.
- Put the bezel in the piece’s right-hand corner. Around the bezel’s edge, flux and apply medium solder pallions. Solder on the soldering block and wire mesh. Apply heat evenly, beginning lightly and raising the temperature gradually until the solder flows. Quench and pickle.
- Till they are flush, emery paper the edges. Flux loop and piece’s center. Place together. Pallions of silver solder should be cut with shears, and two should be placed on either side. Until the solder flows, progressively raise the temperature. Pickle and quench. Use emery paper in varying grades to polish your item, giving it a matte surface.
- Get a firm grasp on the setting for the stones in jewelry. Push one portion of the bezel wall against the stone with a flat bezel pusher. To prevent a buildup of metal, push in at points “north,” “south,” “east,” and “west.” As you move around the stone, push in between these locations.
- Apply pressure to the middle and top edges of the bezel by raising the pusher to a higher angle. Use a burnisher rib on the top edge to remove sharp edges and brighten the silver.